Recipes: hare à la royale

If his recipe has as many versions as there are chefs, some elements are common: it takes hare, foie gras, pork throat, fresh bacon, cognac, wine, garlic, shallots, vegetables, spices and hare’s blood.

The recipe of Sébastien Gravé, chef of the Pottoka restaurant in Paris:

Hare à la royale by Christian – Les Carnets de Julie

Hare à la royale by Paul Bocuse:

Ingredients :

– Obtain a red-furred male hare of fine French stock, weighing five to six pounds, killed well enough not to have lost a drop of blood.

– Fatty seasonings: 3 or 4 tablespoons of goose fat, 125 grams of bacon bardi, 125 grams of normal bacon.

– Other seasonings and vegetables: 1 normal-sized carrot, 4 medium-sized onions, halfway between a chicken egg and a pigeon egg, 30 cloves of garlic, 60 cloves of shallot, 4 cloves, 1 leaf of bay leaf, 1 sprig of thyme, a few parsley leaves, salt and pepper.

– Liquids: 1/4 liter of good red wine vinegar, 2 bottles of Chambertin wine, five or more years in the bottle.

Material:

1 oblong daubière of well-tinned copper, height 20 cm, length 35 cm, width 20 cm, with hermetic lid; add to the sauce; 1 chopper; 1 large deep plate; 1 colander; 1 small boxwood pestle.

Protocol (6h30 of preparation):

– Peel and gut the hare. Apart from the heart, liver and lungs. Also reserve the blood separately and with great care. According to tradition, two or three small glasses of old and precious Charentes cognac can be added.

Prepare 1 full-sized carrot, cut in quarters; 4 medium-sized onions, in each of which a clove is stuck; 20 cloves of garlic; 40 shallot pods; 1 bouquet garni, consisting of half a fresh bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, a few parsley leaves.

. For instance, at 13:30, cover the bottom and sides of the daubière with good goose fat, then, on the bottom of the daubière, spread a bed of bacon barda.

. Cut the front quarters of the hare flush with the shoulders; thus remove the neck and the head, and only the very elongated saddle and the legs remain. Then place, on the bard’s bed, the animal in all its length and lying on its back. Then coat it with new bacon bards. All bards are employed.

. Then add: the carrot in four pieces; the 4 onions with cloves; 20 cloves of garlic; 40 shallot pods; the garnished bouquet.

. Pour a quarter liter of good red wine vinegar, a bottle and a half of good Burgundy wine, four to five years in the bottle over the hare.

. Season with enough salt and pepper.

. At 14garnish the daubière in this way, cover it with the lid and put it on the fire.

. Adjust the heat so that the hare cooks for three hours over low, constant and continuous heat.

. First, chop very finely, and then take each of the following four elements, chopping them separately: 125 grams of bacon; the heart, liver and lungs of the hare; 10 cloves of garlic; 20 shallot cloves. The minced garlic and minced shallot must be very fine. This is one of the primary conditions for the success of this dish.

The bacon, the hare entrails, the garlic and the shallot thus chopped very finely and separately, combine everything in a general mince in order to obtain an absolutely perfect mixture.

Reserve this mince.

. At 17:00, remove the sausage pan from the heat. Carefully remove the hare; place it on a tray. There, free it from all debris of bards, carrots, onions, garlic, shallots, which could dirty it; return this debris to the daubière.

Malta. Now take a large hollow dish and a colander. Then empty the contents of the daubière into the colander placed on the large plate; with a wooden pestle pound all that has been poured into the colander, in order to extract all the juice, which forms a coulis in the large plate.

Mix the coulis and mince. Now is the time to use the mince that was the subject of the second operation. Mix this mixture with the coulis. Heat half a bottle of wine of the same origin as the one in which the hare has already been cooked. Pour this mulled wine into the mixture of coulis and minced meat and mix everything well.

. At 5:30 pm, put back into the daubière the mixture diluted with the coulis and the mince and the hare, with all the bones of the thighs or others that could have been detached during the operation. Put the daubière back on the heat, over low and continuous heat below and above, for a second cooking of an hour and a half.

. At 19:00, since the excess fat, coming from the (necessary) abundance of bacon, makes it impossible to judge the progress of the sauce, now proceed with a first degreasing. The work, in fact, will not be completed until the sauce is sufficiently thick to offer a consistency similar to that of mashed potatoes; not really, however, because if we want it too dense, we will end up reducing it so much that there won’t be enough left to moisten the meat (naturally very dry) of the hare.

The defatted hare can then continue to cook like this, always over very low heat, until the reserved blood is added with the utmost care, as mentioned above.

. At 7.45pmsince the tying of the sauce is on its way, a fourth and final operation will bring it definitively and very quickly to the point.

Addition of hare’s blood. At this point, adding the blood, not only activates the binding of the sauce, but also acquires a beautiful brown color, the more appetizing the darker it is. This addition of blood should not be done more than a quarter of an hour before serving; it must also be preceded by a second degreasing.

Therefore, first properly degrease; after which, without wasting a minute, we have to deal with the hare’s blood.

1. Beat the blood with a fork so that, if some parts are curd, they become completely liquid again.

2 ° Pour the blood on the sauce, taking care to print on the daubière, from bottom to top and from right to left, a back and forth movement that will make it penetrate evenly into all corners and cracks of the container.

Then taste; season with salt and pepper if necessary. Shortly after (a quarter of an hour maximum), get ready to serve.

. At 20:00take the hare from the daubière, whose shape is necessarily more or less altered.

. In any case, arrange in the center of the serving dish all that is still in the state of flesh, – the completely bare bones, now useless, which are thrown away -, and then, finally, around this hare in compote, to garnish the wonderful sauce so carefully prepared.

. Needless to say, the use of a knife would be sacrilege to serve this hare, and a spoon is more than enough. ”

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