This Monday morning, like every week, is market day in Costaros. At around 9 in the morning, while the merchants and buyers of the first hour, wrapped in their coats, make up the world, in Le Daguet, around a coffee, anecdotes and other glimpses of life are booming. On the service side, despite the ten customers present, it is not yet the tender. Although … Despite being exceptionally helped by her mother, Muriel, her brother, Fabrice, her apprentice, Cassandra, and her seasonal employee, Émilie, Ondine Dubouloz, 32, she multiplies round trips between the room , the bar and the kitchen. She has owned this “country restaurant” for more than four years. He is what she “has always dreamed of having”. Finally, since she changed her way.
From the Marseillaise scalpel to Altiligérien knives
At the beginning Ondine Dubouloz was not predestined for a future made of coffee, stoves and formica counters. Rather, he saw himself walking in his father’s footsteps. After a year at the Faculty of Medicine of La Timone, in Marseille, he realizes that the profession does not correspond precisely to the image he had of it … “I fell in love with my father’s medicine, the one where we spent an hour per patient, to discuss. But I realized that I was moving more towards timed medicine “.Bernard and Nadine Moulergue and two regulars
Knowing that she would not be able to fit into this “mold”, she chose another one: catering. “She brings together a lot of things that I love. And then, even as a child, I used to cook ”, she explains, while the tinkling of the cups increases with the crowded customers.
At first I focused on 100% local cuisine, then I showed who I was
preparing more Provencal dishes
In 2011 he obtained a BEP in kitchen and then, the following year, a BTS in tableware and service, with a culinary production option in a work-studio program at the Cave de Baille. This led him to train in oenology. Such is his talent that a local school, based in Marseille, spotted her and offered her to join their ranks. Not to mention a severe shoulder tear, which caused him four years of work stoppage and more than five operations. “It happened by forcing,” Ondine says.Customers are about to taste Ondine’s cuisine.
The 30-year-old is hyperactive in nature. “The kitchen was the solution. It channels me completely and allows me to express myself in a specific context. That’s why I wouldn’t do anything else for anything in the world ”.
A local clientele immediately conquered
In 2015, after spending the holidays in the region, Ondine Dubouloz decided to settle in Costaros, with her parents and grandfather. His shoulder injury didn’t bury his hopes for a career in the restaurant business. Four years later, she met a couple from the village, Bernard and Nadine Moulergue, who have separated from their bar-restaurant. She bought it and renamed it Le Daguet, discovering that the idea of the “novice deer with her young antlers suited her well” as a new restorer.The hall on a busy day.
A wind, or rather a whirlwind of freshness, blows over the factory. The kitchen and the rooms are renovated, equipped, the decoration is modified. Through his grandmother’s copper plates and other paintings that he hangs everywhere, he distills his personality and her story. As for the menu, this enthusiast opts for local dishes made with the know-how of local producers. “I thought it was important to make them work, because they know their products and their animals. I went to see them one by one to offer them a collaboration ”.
The latter continues today and some of its suppliers have become repeat customers, each ordering their favorite dishes from it. “His strawberry is too good”, congratulates Virginie Surel, producer of goat cheese in the municipality of Brignon, present this Monday at the market. “She has a great technique for making omelettes,” adds Frédéric Chery, a primeur from Langogne, who takes care of his counter not far from there.
I am proud to see it continue
and can thrive well. I wish him success
Year after year, the restaurateur develops her menu and starts proposing recipes from elsewhere. “At the beginning I focused on 100% local cuisine. Then I showed who I was by preparing more Provençal dishes. I also started, every weekend, to propose dishes from other countries, in particular the royal couscous with three meats or even Chinese soups ”. She is dedicated body and soul to making her business thrive. So much so that her son Nathan, now 2 years old, was almost born in her facility. “My water broke in my kitchen. I sent my crème brûlée and went to give birth in the maternity ward. A week after the caesarean section, I was back ”.The horse traders.
His involvement in the city of Costaros does not go unnoticed. The Marseille tornado is gradually attracting the sympathy of the locals, more and more are pushing the doors of Le Daguet. Like this Monday with four horse traders, Jean, Fernand, Dédé and Stéphane, sitting at a table by the windows to enjoy their sandwich. “We are always well served here,” appreciates Jean, 76, adding that he has been coming to the facility since he was very young.
A few tables away, Bernard grew up in this place. His parents, Juliette and Baptiste Moulergue, created the bar in 1958. “From the age of 6 I was designing wine to help them, he recalls, sipping his coffee. So, I passed a zip code. I worked with my mother who provided the service and cooking while my father took care of the bar. On April 15, 1977, I joined my parents. Then in 1982 I completely took over the factory with my wife before selling it in July 2019 to Ondine ”. Since then, every Monday, the couple has come to see with satisfaction how the business of a place they love is going. “I am proud to see that it is continuing and thriving well. I wish him success. “
The creation of rest rooms and an Map
Last August, obtaining the Bistrot de Pays label, created in 1993 to support independent bistro owners, strengthened Ondine in its integration into the highland commercial landscape. “I admit, I shed my little tear because I told myself that, even though I have struggled for three years, between Covid and shortages, I am still here. Like my local clientele that I took a long time to acquire ”. Driven by this new victory, Storm Ondine will not weaken. Showcase.
The young mother, now in high school by adoption, has projects full of ideas. Work on her business plan should begin next January. Seven stage rooms, intended for hikers, will see the light from April. In a slightly more distant future, perhaps an AMAP (Association for the maintenance of peasant agriculture) should also be founded. One thing is certain: the mistral will continue to blow over Costaros and its surroundings for many years to come.
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