Ten addresses where to make a mâchon in Lyon

Oullins. The Barbetto brothers

At the Barbet Brothers, we take chewing seriously. “It is not an organized party”, roars Julien Barbet from his Oullinois stove. So, of course, you can come and sit unexpectedly in the morning and meet people, often colleagues and workers who are taking a morning break. We choose one of the dishes on the menu (digger apron, Braillon andouillette…).

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For the more farsighted, the tattooed chef can prepare Lyon salad bowls as an appetizer, then a choice of veal head, beef tongue, cow teat, veal liver (we love it), followed by a cheese. Don’t ask for dessert “in a real mâchon, you don’t eat it”.

If you run out of ideas, take a look at the chef’s social networks … Our mouth is watering just looking at them and we are very sorry not to have a longer break to go there every lunch hour. In addition, on sunny days, you can sit on the terrace, under the plane trees, to enjoy the chef’s cuisine.

58 boulevard Emile-Zola, Oullins. 04 78 51 33 92.
Monday to Friday from 7:00 to 15:00, Thursday and Friday from 18:00 to 24:00, Saturday from 7:00 to 16:00
Prices. Count between 20 and 25 euros, including wine.

Rillieux-la-Pape. The counter of the hanged wolf

To have the privilege of eating Thomas Perre’s cooking, you must bring your car to Rillieux. But the journey is worth it. Because the Comptoir du Loup Pendu offers a leap in time with its Formica furniture, its posters, advertisements and the owner’s diplomas glued to the red walls.

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If you arrive unexpectedly, you can plant your fork from 8:30 in a beef tongue, anandouillette from Braillon, a veal strawberry with gratin from Saint-Marcellin (“It looks a bit like a veal blanchette with or without mushrooms, cream, Saint-Marcellin, all browned in the oven” confides Géraldine in the dining room)… If you plan ahead, you can start at 7:30.

1088 avenue Victor-Hugo, Rillieux-la-Pape. 04 78 88 22 40.
Monday to Friday from 7:00 to 19:00, Saturdays from 7:00 to 16:00
Prices. Cheese plate or dessert plate: 25 euros. Pot of Beaujolais: 10 euros.

Lyon 9And. The 4G: Gnolus, greats, gognands and others disappeared

It’s been five years since Philippe Moy took over this former Vaise bar (formerly Le Cap) to offer authentic cork food. And since in the morning, with his brigade, he prepares for the hundred covers that he sends every noon, the pots have been simmering since 7 am.

You can therefore come without a reservation and sit down to eat absolutely everything that is available à la carte: marrow bones, tripe à la lyonnaise, quenelle, Bobosse andouillette, kidneys, lamb brains, homemade pate crust or apron of zapper. The watchword is conviviality. Logical, for this grocer’s nephew.

27 rue de Gorge-de-Loup, Lyon 9And. 04 37 46 56 42.
Monday to Friday from 7:00 to 15:00 Machon from 7:00
Prices. A la carte dishes: appetizers from 5.90 to 9.90 euros, dishes from 10.90 to 22 euros.

Lyon 2And. La Meunière

At La Meunière, Olivier Canal likes to surprise chewers by offering them the choice between a wise or more vulgar menu. © Susie Waroude

Pushing the doors of La Meunière, rue Neuve, 101 years of history (of Lyon cuisine) contemplate us. Here the novice chewers can slum as much as the more experienced ones. The host of the place since 2015, Olivier Canal, always asks them if they are players or not.

“If they are good, I’ll make them a pork loin, a wedge of beef or a focaccia, says the chef with a south-eastern accent and current president of the Les Bouchons Lyonnais association. Otherwise I go to the tripe shop. “ As an introduction, he always puts on the table a terrine or its Lyonnaise salad bowls (muzzle, lentils and trotters of veal) before bringing the main course.

And for the final bouquet, a cervelle de canut or a cheese platter. It depends. What will you tell me? It depends on the wind, the weather, the wishes and the mood of the chef. Surprise.

11 rue Neuve, Lyon 2And. 04 78 28 62 91.
Tuesday to Saturday from 12:00 to 13:45 and from 19:30 to 21:30 (19:00 on Saturdays). To chew: Tuesday to Saturday at 9 o’clock.
Prices. 30 euros including wine.

Lyon 2And. The museum

Since 2004, Luc Minaire has been at the helm of this real cork, next to the Print Museum, previously run by the three Laverrière sisters (who earned the restaurant the nickname of “six buttocks”). He enters from the driveway, revealing a traboule (the only one in the peninsula of the Renaissance period).

Inside, the atmosphere is warm, with mismatched chairs, well-ironed checkered tablecloths and religiously listening to the owner indicating the menu, with particular attention to the brioche sausage that the chef, an expert baker, makes entirely, sausage dough. To chew, you have to come on Saturday morning.

After the three appetizers, we choose from the dishes of the day (brioche, pork trotters, quenelle, andouillette, beef cheek), and finish with a praline tart, a crème brûlée or other desserts. If you like history, and in particular that of Lyon, the always cheerful chef is inexhaustible.

2 rue des Forces, Lyon 2And. 04 78 37 71 54.
From Tuesday to Friday noon and evening. Chew on Saturday mornings.
Prices. 28 euros (minimum: six people).

Lyon 2And. The Jura Coffee

This historic thorn is Jura just its name (and the mountain one can drink there), but its cuisine is very Lyonnaise. In the kitchen Brigitte Josserand and in the dining room Benoît, her son, reject monotony and say it loud and clear: “We know our classics. Some people should be told to reopen the work ofEscoffier! ”

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Then you can eat casserole eggs with nantua sauce with prawns, coq au vin by Mère Josserand, French hunting mallard roasted with orange blossom honey and chanterelle flan …

25 rue Tupin, Lyon 2And. 04 78 42 20 57.
From Tuesday to Saturday noon and evening. Mâchon from 9:00 to 11:15 (minimum four people).
Prices. 28 euros excluding drinks.

Lyon 6And. The Antr’OPote

The antr'opotes Mâchon Lyon
Julien Le Guillou, chef of L’Antr’OPotes. © Susie Waroude

In summer we also come here for its hidden terrace and all year round we sit down to taste Julien Le Guillou’s gourmet cuisine. For the mâchon it happens at the bar or in the cellar. As an introduction, the chef offers an assortment: pork legs, muzzle, herring potatoes (served warm in winter) or lamb sweetbreads; then we move on to serious things: according to your wishes, calf’s head, Lyonnaise sausage, sapper apron, sweetbreads (with supplement).

Finally, a plate of cheese or a slice of praline tart or a rum baba. To wrap up all of this, you need to have a good fork.

118 rue Bossuet, Lyon 6And. 04 81 65 29 78.
From Monday to Friday at noon, from Tuesday to Friday evening.
Prices. 30 euros with a dish per person.

Lyon 6And. The painter’s café

“When you are a Freemason, anyone who walks in the door should be able to sit back and enjoy themselves”, launches Maxime Périer who forms a duo with his mother, Florence, with a contagious smile. So as tradition dictates, without a menu, we order a au gratin andouillette (in our opinion one of the best in Lyon, because the potato bed on which the andouillette rests is very tender), a crispy head of veal or a stew of the day, followed by cheese.

And nothing sweet! Let’s not mess with the rules here. To accompany all this, entrust yourself to Maxime whose fine palate has unearthed small nuggets in the estates of the Rhone Valley, but not only.

50 boulevard des Brotteaux, Lyon 6And. 04 78 52 52 61.
Monday to Wednesday noon, Thursday and Friday noon and evening. Mâchon from 8:30 am (without reservation). Prices. Between 20 and 25 euros.

Lyon 1uh. Le Garet

This is one of the caps that has managed to stay in its own juice (level of decorum), but whose chef, in fact, masters all the art (it must be said that Emmanuel Ferra worked in the kitchens of Bocuse, Larivoire and Jean- Paul Lacombe before taking over this Lyon institution in 2002, where Jean Moulin ate his last meal).

In accordance with the traditions, you munch on it, and the boss proposes to the guests (minimum six) of “let it go” (“without imposing anything either”we are reassured in the room): ham with parsley, sabodet, blanquette, bourguignon, bacon, chicken in a pot or pot-au-feu… beautiful classics, invigorating.

7 rue du Garet, Lyon 1uh. 04 78 28 16 94.
Monday to Friday noon and evening.
Prices. 31 euros for a mâchon: appetizer, main course, cheese, coffee, wine.

Lyon 2And. The pan of gold

Today the Poêlon d’Or no longer makes mâchon without a reservation, but prefers to organize one once a month in collaboration with an oenologist (to find out, check out the restaurant’s social networks). It is also with one of his favorite domains, that of Franck Chavy, that Yann Lalle organizes one on the second Thursday of January.

“It allows you to discover the work of a Beaujolais winemaker, says this lover of Lyonnaise cuisine. What is certain is that we do not leave here hungry. ” Otherwise you can always book to organize one, only criterion: gather 25 guests.

29 rue des Remparts d’Ainay, Lyon 2And. 04 78 37 65 60.
From Tuesday to Saturday noon and evening.
Prices. 28 euros per person.

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