In Tulle, Le Local lives up to its name

That Tuesday, when he arrived at the door of his factory, quai-Baluze in Tulle, around seven o’clock, he found two crates of beets and cauliflower that his gardener had given him. Later, he went around his fridge and inspector, and came across a quarter of swordfish and a brioche from the day before.

It is about this morning check-up that Régis Raffy has built his dishes of the day, those that will be handwritten on the blackboard that, at noon, circulates among the tables of his restaurant, Le Local, with sympathy that goes well with the tullist soul of the Trech district.

That day, therefore, among the appetizers of the day we will find a cauliflower soup or a grated red beet and its soft-boiled egg.

“Anyway I would feel like a prisoner, locked up with too much of a fixed menu and get bored very quickly if I had to prepare the same dishes for months,” explains this burgeoning 40-something chef who has a holy horror routine and who is a zero loss maniac. . “Nothing bothers me more than throwing away, wasting, wasting. “

We enjoyed the Fusilli with swordfish, peas and coriander. And what about this apple brioche with the flavors of childhood? Lost? Not for everyone, don’t worry …

Multiple experiences

The other trait of Régis’ personality is his energy, his ability to create and reinvent himself. Less than six months after the opening of his Local, the chef wasted no time making a name for himself in the gastronomic scene on the banks of the Corrèze.

To say that Régis punched is an understatement. It is true that with him “he must move, he must tremble, he must sweat again” as Clara Luciani sings.

In Paris or Bordeaux, gourmet restaurant, brasserie, bistro, trattoria, pizzeria, fusion cuisine or chef at home: those who studied in the hotel section of the René-Cassin high school in Tulle, have multiplied their professional experiences in all sectors of catering.

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Local, real

A frenzy that stopped during the health emergency. There, like so many French people, imprisonment allowed Régis and his wife to redefine their life goal for their family. At the beginning of 2022, is the big change: exit Paris, return to Corrèze.

Professionally, this is also the opportunity that Régis has been waiting for a long time to embark on this great adventure to which so many chefs aspire and to give life to this idea that he has fiercely kept in a small corner of his head: to create his own business … in Corrèze, obviously.

It will therefore be Le Local, in Tulle, on the site of a former creperie that he buys in April 2022. The inauguration takes place at the beginning of May with works carried out by this volunteer firefighter himself.

The concept is based on one word: local. In fact, when many establishments make the place an eco-marketing attitude like others engage in greenwashing to legitimize their practices, Régis does not cheat, does not simulate, does not tell stories. Here the term short circuit is not an empty word since its meats come from the countryside of the Pays de Tulle: the beef comes from Sainte-Fortunade, the lamb from Chaumeil and the vegetables from the area. As for fish, bread or wine, he buys them from local artisans and merchants. “A network of suppliers and manufacturers that quickly formed,” he acknowledges.

In the dishes, Régis likes to offer refined cuisine, a little more creative and refined on weekends, the one he loves to do celebrating tradition and terroir but also taking inspiration from Asian or exotic inspirations.

“For example, I like to cook beef in teriyaki or tataki, Japanese recipes, to think outside the box. Just as I enjoy working with fish by offering a whole mullet in my wallet. Or a Peruvian sea bream ”, explains the man who works alone in the kitchen and who found“ a war machine ”with the efficient and dynamic Laurie accompanying him in the dining room.

And, in view of these promising beginnings and a successful summer season, Régis could calm down, stabilize and settle down for good, only to include Le Local in the refined gastronomic vitality that has blown over Tulle in recent years.

The product


Mademoiselle Angèle caramel tart. The place is beautiful, elegant, welcoming. We feel good at Mademoiselle Angèle, a new tea room created by Angélique De Sa and which opened its doors last October, place Carnot in Tulle.

It is in this cozy cocoon in the heart of the city that at noon you can enjoy a tea or hot chocolate, a pastry or even some savory dishes. We tasted a homemade dessert, a salted butter caramel tart and walnut flakes. A success !

Neither stuffy nor too hard, the dough has a nice tasty texture. Even the caramel is perfectly balanced: soft and melting, neither too elastic nor too hard, greedy and not too sweet, and whose hint of salt finds a beautiful echo with the perfectly identifiable taste of seasonal dried fruit flakes.

Fashionable

For a long time, it didn’t resonate any more with the taste buds of the French. And then, in recent years, driven by the movement of ceviches (raw fish salad dressed with lime and spices), Peruvian cuisine has earned a place among the best cuisines in the world. Recently, several cooking magazines have singled out Lima and Peru as the gastronomic destinations of the moment. Peru stands out for its exceptional Andean products (cereals, fruit, roots, etc.) but also for its dishes such as tirado, rocoto Rellono (chilli) or aji de gallina (chicken and pepper soup). Note the enthusiasm for new culinary trends such as Nikkei cuisine (Japanese and Peruvian fusion) and chifa (Sino-Peruvian trend).

Wine

The main roads 2020. It was to Vincent Dubech, his neighboring wine merchant located across the Corrèze, that Régis put his faith in creating a relevant and intelligent wine list that even gives pride of place to local wine. Perhaps we will soon find this cuvée des Grands chemins, produced by Roucas Toumba, owned by the Bouletin family, in Vacqueyras (Vaucluse). Deaf to fashions and trends, Éric Bouletin has remained faithful to his principles of freedom and authenticity, values ​​that are found in his wines, such as this blend of Grenache, old Carignano and Syrah. An alliance of emblematic grape varieties from the south of the Rhone Valley offering a typically southern wine with a nose full of sunshine and red fruits. On the palate it is direct, straightforward and immediate, knowing how to play maliciously on power and softness, leaving room for spicy notes to express themselves. A job well done.

Fabrice Varieras

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