Auvergne stew, stew, stuffed cabbage … These traditional dishes are on the menu of the restaurant Les Papilles in Clermont-Ferrand

We take you to lunch in the city center of Clermont-Ferrand, place Sugny, near the prefecture, where the restaurant Les Papilles is “hidden”.

It is accessed as if it were a clandestine restaurant. No shop windows, just a totem pole placed on the sidewalk in front of 18 Sugny place, to indicate that the place is open. Between an insurance office and a hairdresser, a corridor leads to the entrance: welcome to the taste buds! As a preamble, know this: the decor isn’t crazy. It’s reminiscent of a small roadside restaurant deep in the city center, with its clear plastic tablecloths, ordinary tiles, and advertising posters on the walls. On the other hand, you eat very well!

The bosses and the chef

Les Papilles has been a restaurant renowned for its fine cuts of meat and its late service for more than fifteen years. Christian Croizet, her owner, has given in to pursue another business (this summer she took over the Gauthier butcher) and Nathalie Dervaud, who used to work in the kitchen, now has the dual role of chef and boss alongside her husband , William Jonget. Service is the business of Camille, their daughter.

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The kitchen

The novelty is that Les Papilles is no longer just an evening restaurant, where you can dine on a fine rib eye steak, a veal liver or even a duck breast. From Tuesday to Friday, a lunch menu is now proposed and this is what we want to tell you about. Because Nathalie has chosen to write the dishes of traditional French cuisine on the blackboard, “these dishes that no one cooks anymore but that everyone loves. They range from appetizers (onion soup, Le Puy lentil soup, Cantal soup) to desserts (pear clafoutis, crème caramel, chocolate mousse).

Our favorite dish

The Auvergne hot dish is on the menu every Friday for lunch.

We came on a Friday, a hot day in Auvergne. A local dish with a generous garnish (½ shank, sausage and Auvergne breast, all from the butcher Gauthier). Add to that some potatoes, carrots and nice cabbage leaves, here is a very successful complete meal. Depending on the day, you can also indulge in a stuffed cabbage (Tuesday), a pot-au-feu (Wednesday) or a roast Saint-Nectaire (Thursday).

What are we drinking?

An Auvergne wine, like this rosé from Desprat-Saint-Verny served by the glass (€ 3.50) or opt for a perfectly honest carafe of Côtes-du-Rhône (€ 6 for a quarter, € 12 for half a liter) .

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The bill

At lunch: dish of the day € 14, starter-first or second-dessert formula € 17, full formula € 20. In the evening, à la carte dishes € 23/25. Restaurant vouchers are accepted.

Where and when ?

Mini headphones, 18, Sugny locality, in Clermont-Ferrand. Open at noon from Tuesday to Friday (until April) and in the evening from Monday to Saturday (service until 11.30pm). Tel.

Catherine Jutier

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